Day 15: West Yellowstone to Pahaska Teepee (Shoshone, WY)

Distance: 83 miles

Elevation: +4670 / -4653

Temperature: 88 degrees

After anticipating this day’s natural wonders, and its potential elevation challenges, we rode into Yellowstone at daybreak. After numerous warnings, we had all equipped ourselves with bear spray that was easily accessible. Some of us were a little intimidated by this, since we had been warned when purchasing it that it was serious stuff: it needed to be immediately accessible, there would be a kickback when we depressed the trigger, and that it was as powerful as a gun, but much more effective. (I’m thinking that the guy that was selling these was ex-military?) Wondering how to manage meeting up with a bear in Yellowstone? https://www.upworthy.com/national-park-service-bears

Proving that we’re able to learn from our mistakes, we left EARLIER this morning to get through Yellowstone, setting off at 5:30AM in order to avoid the wind with gusts predicted of 33 mph, and consistent winds of 14-16 mph.

Surprisingly, a LOT of people had the same idea, and there was a steady stream of traffic headed the same way at that early hour.

Riding through thermal vents.

We avoided most of the wind up until we climbed to the first pass near Canyon Village (elev. 8000 feet).

From then on, the next 27 miles up on a plateau were into a really strong headwind and cross wind that were both hard to ride through as well as strong enough to knock us to the side. Fortunately, most drivers were patient with us, and we pulled off the road regularly to let them pass us (not that they could go fast, given the number of cars stacked up as they moved through the park).

When we finally dropped our elevation and reached the lake, the winds began to drop some. Then we turned west, and were able to take advantage of a slight tail wind, intermingled with the cross winds. We rode along the lake for about 10 miles, and we had amazing views of the Tetons to our south. We then we began our second ascent to Sylvan Pass at 8530 feet: the climb that many of us had been fretting over for months. This area was beset with wildfires in 2008, and the terrain is still struggling to grow back. At the top of the pass, again there were tremendous views, followed by a seven mile downhill at a 7% grade on roads that twisted and turned all the way down, making it a white knuckle descent as we gripped our brakes with everything we had.

In order to best share the sights, the following is a cataloging of the day’s adventure.

Wildlife:

Bison:

These were the first bison we saw when we entered the park. In fact, we were so caught up in seeing these off in the distance that we completely failed to see the massive bull standing on the side of the road to our left as we rode by.

These bison were close to the road, and a park official stopped to yell at everyone to back away.

Bears:

You can just make out a mama grizzly moving through the brush at the back of the logs, with her cub to the left. Yes, the bear spray was out and ready, and notice the safe distance!

Bear tracks in the snow

Moose:

Almost across from our lodging, this bull moose and cow were grazing by the side of the road.

Terrain:

Riding along the Yellowstone River and Gibbons Falls.

Grand Canyon of Yellowstone

Open areas that bison seem to really love 💕

Sulphur Cauldron and Boiling Mud Pots

Yellowstone Lake and the mountains in the distance.

Climbing the last pass of the day. You can still see the damage done by the fires that swept through this area in 2008.

Descending!

Highlights:

1 Yellowstone!!!!

Lowlights:

1 Wind

2 No WiFi for 3 days (hence the radio silence the past few days!)