Distance: 82 miles
Elevation: +2818 / -2894
Temperature: low 90s
We were greeted with a beautiful sunrise this morning as we got ready to leave the riverboat, and we left our cabin doors open as we waited to see it rise. And then there were three. We said goodbyes to Katherine and MK, and then we struck out for Kansas.
The morning was already warming, and our goal was Fall City where Kurt had found what looked like a great place to get breakfast at mile 27, since we were leaving too early for breakfast on the riverboat. The One Stop Cafe proved to be a wonderful fine. There was no sign identifying it, but lots of cars outside were a testament to how good it was. Pancakes as big as Becky’s head, and warm cinnamon rolls were both enjoyed.
We were still following the route laid out by Adventure Cycling (ACA), but, unlike Iowa, Nebraska did not seem to have the same cycle-centric road signs for the Lewis and Clark Trail that we were following. Bummer. Riding along the Missouri River, it was clear that a number of towns were barely existing. The floods in 2019 along the Missouri could have been part of it, and remnants from the flood were visible in places in both Nebraska and Kansas. Some towns, like Nemaha and Rulo, Nebraska and White Cloud, Kansas, were likely in decline before the flood, with the flood perhaps being the final straw to the town’s viability.
Because we’re on the Lewis and Clark Trail, we’ve been sure to stop at the interpretive signs along the way to see each place they camped, slept, ate, picked their teeth, and etc.
When we reached Kansas, we had lunch in a shady spot by the river in White Cloud. We also went up to the “Four State Viewing Platform” where we could look out and see Nebraska, Iowa, Missouri and Kansas. Again, it was clear that a lot of tourists were not heading up to this, and the road was in serious condition. But, we did snap some pics looking out across the Missouri River Valley before heading back down to the main route.
The day was made up mostly of rolling hills. A lot of rolling hills, actually, as we followed the Glacial Hills Scenic Byway in Kansas. Along the way, we saw historic barns that were set into the hillsides, thereby taking advantage of the hills for part of their structure.
If you look near the horizon on the left, you can see the hill we’re headed to next on the other side of the valley.
We finally rolled into Atchison, KS, the birthplace of Amelia Earhart, where we availed ourselves of the hotel pool and the DQ located conveniently next door. Atchison is known as one of the the most historical towns in Kansas as well as the most haunted town in the state, which attracts numerous visitors in search of a paranormal experience. I don’t know about ghosts, but the Internet has been wonky all afternoon, so maybe there’s a poltergeist or something. Here’s hoping for sweet dreams, and no misty apparitions.
Highlights:
Breakfast at the One Stop Cafe (especially the cinnamon rolls)
Following the Missouri River
Low traffic on the roadways
Bluff Road
Lowlights:
Headwinds
Heat
Saying goodbye to half of the team :-(
Wetland along the route.